Alumni Interview with Paul Lessner

What inspired you to go abroad?

I've worked as a middle school teacher for years and have always wanted to do something meaningful with my summer breaks. I have worked with Himalayan Education Lifeline Program two times now—in 2015 & 2017—and I am so pleased with their program. I may volunteer with them again in the future.

Why did you choose Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme? 

I did a lot of research before my first overseas volunteer trip by reading UNICEF and United Nations reports and looking closely at nonprofit volunteer organizations. If you haven't already, research "Children are not Tourist Attractions" at ChildSafe, UNICEF, etc.

After learning about the negative impact on children from repeated attachment disruption due to ongoing short term volunteer placements, and many dangers of unscreened volunteers, I found that Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme is one of the absolute best organizations operating today.

I was very impressed when they conducted not one, but two Skype interviews and contacted all of my references before offering me a placement. I was further convinced by their mission-focused approach that recruits volunteers who are willing to commit for longer terms.

Another consideration is nonprofit status. No one at Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme receives a salary. From volunteer teacher to executive director, everyone donates their time and effort to effect positive change in remote Himalayan villages. These qualities led me to volunteer with HELP.

What was your favorite part about Ladakh?

Ladakh is a remote high-altitude region of the Himalayan Mountains in the northernmost corner of India. It is an ancient land infused with Buddhist tradition. I still think of the peace I felt while living in that amazing land. I lived with a host family where a centuries-old Buddhist monastery perches in the cliffs above the village, and I remember fondly beautiful chanting voices that rolled down the valley some evenings. I can't accurately describe in words how relaxed and at peace I felt. There are at least one hundred more things I loved about Ladakh, but that memory is the one I treasure most.

What made your experience abroad unique?

I loved the deep cultural immersion within my community. Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme works to prevent schools from becoming dependent on teaching volunteers and places only one or two in each community each year. Families, village elders, and fellow teachers welcomed me into their homes for tea or dinners and made me feel welcome right away.

I learned more and more of the local language, Ladakhi, and some of the friendships I made continue to present day. I don't want to malign the contributions of other organizations, but I have to say that my experience would have been very different if I were part of a van-load of volunteers dropped off at school each day or if I returned to a volunteer compound each night—as would the experience for the local community.

I learned so much from living with my host family for the summer and sometimes going for weeks without seeing another westerner. It's beneficial in a way that doesn't overwhelm the village or region.

How did local staff support you throughout your program?

This program was started by a man who spent years in the region working in the Peace Corps. He established and maintained contacts that are used today to identify remote schools in need and to support current volunteers. My contact, Lobzang, was very helpful in getting me settled when I first arrived and in answering any question I had during my time.

What's one thing you wish you would have done differently? 

I wish I prepared more physically, as the high altitude of Ladakh was initially challenging.

Describe a typical day in the life of your program.

I wrote this the week I returned, and I think it fits well here, “I enjoyed a breakfast of chapatis, eggs, and yogurt with my host family and then boarded a school bus for an adventurous ride along narrow mountain roads to where the school is located in a nearby village. I taught two classes, stopped for tea with the headmaster, taught two more classes, and then shared lunch with my fellow teachers before teaching one more class. I tried different types of lessons and strategies unfamiliar to the students, many of which flopped in the beginning, but the students were eager to learn as I eventually found methods that worked.

After sharing food and conversation with my teaching colleagues and playing games with students, I would either teach another class or take a walk to visit the shops and varied food stalls in “town.” My village—far from the tourist mecca of Leh— is truly authentic, and I loved interacting with locals not accustomed to overseas visitors. 

I enjoyed being invited in for tea, sampling different foods and having new experiences. The people of Ladakh were always ready to share whatever they had, and it didn’t take long before they stopped mistaking me for a lost tourist and began recognizing me as teacher.

At 3:30 p.m., I boarded the bus and returned to my host family who were always ready with another warm cup of chai. I spent the remainder of my afternoon journal writing and lesson preparation for the next day. Afterwards, I spent some time sitting in front of their simple home, occasionally talking with the elderly head of the family. Even though he and his wife spoke about ten words of English between them, with the aid of my “Getting Started in Ladakhi” book, a variety of gestures, plus a little patience on both our parts, we were able to engage in long conversations. I asked about different plants or animals on his small farm, and he taught me Ladakhi names for each. I shared English names for things I recognized and asked further about ones I didn’t.

He told me about the history of his village, explaining the purpose each old structure clinging to the mountain sides, including a nineteenth century tower where soldiers from different time used to keep watch, muskets at the ready. He told me about the Buddhist monastery where his youngest son now continues the tradition. I often capped my evenings with a solitary walk along Shillakong River that flows down the valley bathed in incredible beauty. It joins with Yapola River in the middle of the village and then follows a raucous course through craggy mountains eventually merging with the mighty Indus in a long journey to the Indian Ocean.

Ladakh is a high mountain desert and appears stark and empty at first, but when you quiet the noise of modern life, you’ll notice small flowers, hardy plants, camouflaged wildlife and an amazing range of colors, shades of tan, green and purple, that runs throughout ancient rocks. Back home for dinner and conversation, most of the younger members of the family speak a beginning or intermediate level of English, and I was able to recount stories from my homeland and family while learning even more about theirs. After a final cup of tea, I went to my room to read and fell asleep in anticipation of another unforgettable day.

What did you enjoy doing in your free time?

On weekends, I often trekked to other villages in the area to explore or visit other monasteries and Buddhist or Hindu shrines. As people in my village came to know me better, they often told me about places where very few tourists have ever been. On holidays, I sometimes rode the bus to Leh, the largest city in the area to visit friends and enjoy modern conveniences for a couple days before returning to work at the school.

What was your accommodation like? What did you like best about it?

I lived with a lovely host family. They took good care of me and fed me well. I enjoyed spending time with them and learning more about their culture.

What is one thing every participant should know before participating in your program?

India is a land of amazing beauty as much as it is a land of delay and disappointment. Prepare to have your patience and flexibility stretched probably farther than it has ever been. Whether its travel, government paperwork, or getting your Indian sim card to work, almost everything takes longer in India. When you encounter disappointment there, remember THIS IS INDIA. Keep trying.

Now that you're home, how has your program abroad impacted your life?

My perspective has changed greatly. My attitudes toward challenges has softened after seeing how much people in Ladakh accomplish with a fraction of the resources available to me and others in the Western world.

Would you recommend the Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme to others? Why?

I recommend Himalayan Education Lifeline Programme without reservation. They remain committed to the communities they serve by carefully screening and preparing its workers, remaining forever nonprofit, and operating in a culturally sustainable way that doesn't create volunteer dependency.