Written by bestselling travel writers Randall Wood and Joshua Berman, Moon Living Abroad in Nicaragua (Avalon Travel Publishing) was released in tandem with the rapid increase of expatriates in Nicaragua in recent years. Wood and Berman have made the move to Nicaragua themselves since their stint in the Peace Corps in the late 1990s. In this interview with GoAbroad.com, Wood and Berman share their thoughts on travel and expat life in Nicaragua.
GOABROAD.COM: Why Nicaragua? Why live in Nicaragua?
RANDALL WOOD and JOSHUA BERMAN: Nicaragua remains off the traditional tourist's map, which means there are lots of ways to really explore and experience a country without feeling like your hand is being held by a tour guide. Nicaragua is natural, it's unpolished, and it's rife with adventure, from coffee picking to canopy tours, from reef diving to volcano hiking, and from horseback riding to the phenomenal Palo de Mayo festival. As for living there, many expats first take an interest in Nicaragua because it's not expensive to live there, but stay because of the warmth of the people, the interesting opportunities for getting involved, and the great weather. It's one of the hottest new destinations for retirees and people looking for an escape from the North American ratrace, for whom Costa Rica is a bit too over-developed and Florida is a bit too boring. It's not right for everybody, but those who give Nicaragua a chance typically find it's a country that offers more than is apparent at first sight.
GOABROAD.COM: In your book, you give considerable attention to volunteering, what type of volunteer as well as study opportunities are available in Nicaragua?
WOOD and BERMAN: Nicaragua is still very much a developing country which means the clever, sensitive, or creative expat will find more ways to be helpful than there is time in the day. You can help teach young businesses how to strengthen their marketing skills or manage their books, volunteer to work in schools, lend a hand in doctors' offices or the public health system, start a book distribution operation, teach children how to read, or simply just be a good example around town. In fact the reason we mention volunteering so frequently is that volunteering provides a rich cultural opportunity to get to know your community and feel ever more like Nicaragua is a home. In addition, participating in the community is a great way to help your friends and neighbors make a better life for themselves, something for more rewarding than simply being a tourist.
GOABROAD.COM: Which places in Nicaragua are most popular to international visitors and why?
WOOD and BERMAN: Granada and San Juan del Sur are, without a doubt, the most popular destinations. The former is a charming colonial village with great views, a lively expat scene, and great restaurants. It's fun withoutbeing noisy and picturesque without being dangerous, and it's no surprise it's usually first on the traveler's to-do list. San Juan del Sur is a hoppin' beach town with a really chill vibe and some really great people. It's more than just one town these days, as surrounding communities are starting to develop as well, but there are a wealth of opportunities in the area for such things as surfing, sunbathing, watching turtle eggs hatch, and just enjoying the slow pace of a tranquilo ("mellow") beach town. From either of these two places you're not far from Ometepe, the island of two volcanoes. You can hike or bike the island, enjoy a mountain lagoon, look for the waterfall, kayak in the estuary, or just kick back and enjoy the phenomenal scenery, and the boatride out to the island is an adventure in itself.
GOABROAD.COM: What are some great places, off the beaten track, that you would recommend?
WOOD and BERMAN: Actually, *most* of Nicaragua is off the beaten track. Your first adventure should be to the mountainous north to enjoy the coffee farms, cool mountain weather, a hardy locals. Rent a horse and explore or spend a night in a quiet village. It's not expensive up here, even by Nicaraguan standards. But don't miss the Atlantic coast either. Most people think of Nicaragua as a Latin American country, but Nicaragua's Atlantic Coast - a quick one hour flight away - is most definitely Caribbean in nature. The sea is gorgeous, Caribbean blue, but the food is just as appealing, from fresh lobster to coconut bread. Unfortunately the Atlantic isn't as touristed as it should be, but to the adventurous traveler it might mean an isolated sandy beach all to yourself.
GOABROAD.COM: How does Nicaragua compare to other Central American countries in terms of cost of living, safety and other expat issues?
WOOD and BERMAN: Safety is the question we are most frequently asked, a sad relic of the civil war that ended 16 years ago but that no one seems to have noticed. We're happy to report Nicaragua is currently the safest of all Central American countries, including Costa Rica! The statistics back up this claim. Cost of living depends very much on how you like to live, but if you are willing to eat what is produced locally and don't require anything too fancy you will find the cost of living is dramatically lower than more popular locations like Costa Rica and Panama. The dollar goes a long way in Nicaragua unless you happen to be in the shopping mall, where you'll find imported items cost more than they would have back home. Most expats save their shopping for trips back home when they're looking for expensive things like TVs and iPods. But day-to-day expenses in Nicaragua tend to be low. The most important exception to this rule is gasoline, which remains expensive but an important factor in the expat's budget.
GOABROAD.COM: How does the Daniel Ortega election affect life in Nicaragua for foreigners?
WOOD and BERMAN: It's hard to say what the Ortega administration will look like. It's clear this is not the same Ortega of the revolutionary years. He has radically changed his stance on most major issues in order to increase his opportunities in the polls. There is a very good chance he will have no effect at all on the lives of expats. Still, politics are always important in Nicaragua and the jury is still out on what Ortega
will or will not do. The ghost in the closet is, needless to say, confiscation of foreign properties, something Ortega did back in the 1980s. But hardly anyone believes that's is in any way a risk these days, and even Ortega has stated publically he intends to support the business class of the country as they play such an important role in the economy. Expats living in Nicaragua are an important source of income to the new Nicaraguan economy and Ortega knows it, so it's hard to believe he would put the financial opportunity at risk with bad policy.
GOABROAD.COM: What advice do you give to international visitors on how best to immerse themselves in the culture in Nicaragua?
WOOD and BERMAN: As mentioned above, volunteering is a great way to immerse yourself in Nicaraguan culture. One of the most popular ways to do this is to enroll in one of the many excellent Spanish language schools throughout the country. In addition to learning Spanish, most of these programs offer service and/or homestay options. If you already speak some Spanish, there are many homestay options in rural villages, especially in the mountainous north; we especially recommend the "cafe-turismo" projects based out of Matagalpa, in which you live with a coffee working family on their cooperative in the cloud forest. In general, Nicaraguans are helpful, friendly, and warm; expect them to invite you into their homes and lives as soon as you can communicate with them like a friend. If you are just the least bit open to new experiences and learning a new culture, Nicaraguans will quickly make you feel welcome.